In this new Sunday morning column, two of our writers go head-to-head in an epic showdown for the ages. Strong opinions and hysterical hyperbole are welcome (so feel free to join in with the fun in the comments section below). And don't forget to let us know which watches you'd like to see torn to shreds/effusively exalted next week. We'll try and feature as many of our readers' choices as we can. This week its the turn of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Let battle commence.Rob NuddsI was a slow convert to the Patek Philippe Nautilus. For years, I just didn't get it. The furor surrounding this weird anomaly in the brand's catalog? Why? If I wanted a steel sports watch, I'd go to a brand known for steel sports watches, right? Give me a Sub, a Seamaster, or, more recently, a Pelagos. When I thought Patek, I thought Calatrava. I didn't love that model either, but at least it made sense to me. On a rainy day in Leicester, that all changed.
I'd been in town to visit Rob Stewart of Stewart's watches on Allandale road. Rob's store stocks a mixture of new and pre-loved pieces, generally from smaller cult brands, but he has a broad customer base with an even broader field of interest, and they often trade in their old classics for something new and off the beaten track. That meant you were just as likely to find a vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre on display as were a box-fresh Mondaine. What it also meant was that his customers wrists were no strangers to some very serious candy indeed.
Given that one typically meets people when standing up, it's rare for the first thing you notice about someoneC even for watch lunatics like usC to be their wristwatch. But I'd been sitting down when this particular gentleman entered the store. Allowing Rob to take care of business without interruption, I'd busied myself scanning a discarded brochure when the bright boutique lights caught the deep marine blue of the Patek Philippe Nautilus and, subsequently, my attention. That was the moment that changed everything (except, regrettably, my bank balance). Since then, I've been an avid appreciator of the range. I have my favorites within the collection, but I'll fight tooth and nail to defend the group en masse. So bring your best. You're gonna need it.
Mike StocktonMy goodness, that was an endless dialog about visiting Rod Stewart. Frankly, I liked him better doing Da ya think Im sexy. But seriously, when it comes to the Nautilus, its not so much about not liking it from the get-go, its more about truly abhorring what its become.I can recall heading to the Galleria Mall in Fort Lauderdale with my Dad and we popped into Mayors while my Mom was off shopping for something and he checked out a stainless Patek Philippe Nautilus. However, this was before people had to have Jumbo (they had one of those (or more) ready for sale during that era as well) and he looked at the normal model, which was and is a very wearable 37.5mm (ahem, almost the same as every 36mm model that every man wore up until that company started super-sizing things).
I thought that was a really attractive model, but this was in the 90s and it was already close to or over $10K so it was a no go. Later, when my Dad bought a similar era IWC Ingenieur, he started to talk to me about Genta and I came to appreciate the different designs from the era. So, so far, youre thinking that were on the same side, right? Well, youre about as wrong as pairing baked beans with your eggs.Rob: I like baked beans and eggs.Mike: Youre sick, but I hope you at least go with some black pudding to get back on the right side of things.Rob: Im European.Mike: Typical. A Nautilus lover making excuses for their weird preferences. You see, I find the Patek Philippe Nautilus to be the poster child for this obsession of hoarding and driving prices up on certain so-called hard to find stainless steel sports watches. Want to talk to me about expensive vintage Patek Nautilus pieces? I have no problem with thatsomething old thats no longer in production has a rarity that can be measured to a large degree. But the fact that the Nautilus leads a herd of other watches like the Royal Oak and any number or steel pieces in the Ive bought it and can sell it for double category just sickens me. Whether its the slimy influencers who brag about them on Instagram in an hourly rented Lambo whilst wearing some over-branded pick a designer tracksuit, it actually makes me want to go buy comic books.Rob: Were not all like that. I dont even own a tracksuitMike: And then there are the collectors wearing them with their popped-collar polo shirts, bespoke collab loafers, and vintage cocktails. And finally, you have the slimeball dealers who love to state that they have a great deal for you simply because they have one in stock. No thanksNow, youre going to say, thats not the watchs fault.Rob: You read my mind
Mike: But it isBecause a brand actually produces these things and while a capitalist such as myself might say that this type of demand is a good thing, nothing lasts forever. Remember the Panerai surge? (and thats no slight on Paneraigood that they made their watches available). But this false rarity is crap and it brings out the worst in people. And dont even get me started on that Aquanuatthats a whole other discussion. If youre looking for a wealthy mans life of leisure dressy sports watch, go grab one of those new Bulgari Octo Finissimo models instead. Id give them my money purely out of principle. By the way, have I told you lately that I love you?Rob: I still cant get on board with it being the watchs fault. To me, it sounds like youre saying that the minute a particular model becomes a status symbol and, inevitably, owned by some, shall we say less-than-charming individuals that it ceases to be a good watch. And I get that the association with these less-than-charming customers puts you off owning and wearing the Nautilus yourself, but I would have thought that would make you sad, not mad.?
I live in a little bubble inside my head a lot of the time. I like watches because I like watches, not because anyone told me to, or because I like what it says about me to other people (quite the opposite, actually ?I often feel a bit sheepish about wearing a watch worth several thousand euros when Im down the Working Mens Club supping homemade ale at ?o2.35 a pint). And so I dont desire a Nautilus because of anything other than the fact it is a desirable thing. I think it is beautiful. I would probably drive a Lambo too if youve ever got one kicking around, but not because other people would think Im cool/rich/successful/aroused by fluorescent colors and terrible ground clearance. But simply because, like the Nautilus, it does what its supposed to do really, really well. And I like stuff like that. Does that make me a bad person, Mike? Does it?Mike:? Rob, it doesnt make you a bad person and maybe Im a bad person. Wait, no, Im a good person and, by the wayIve been to the Working Mens Club in Bham and the blokes were all drinking BudI was the guy drinking Old Speckled Hen off the cask, but I digress
Yeah, for me, there are just so many great watches in the world that Id just rather not currently associate myself with the current trend of overindulgence and hype that I think is bound to break. And as mentioned, I see the Patek Philippe Nautilus as a, if not the, poster child of such activity. On the other hand, you did state that youd happily drive a Lambo if one were idly sitting around and I suppose Id rock a Nautilus if the wind were taken out of its sails. It is a good looking watch thats well made (and heres a secret I like it better than the Royal Oak because the bracelet isnt quite the hair remover) and fits my wrist. I still think were one good economic snap (or a rebound in interest rates) away from seeing things normalize again and then perhaps Id rock one of these.Until this happens, Im not saying Tonights the Night unless I find one at retail or at a discount.? If nothing else, you can at least agree that my inclusion of Rod the Mod song titles is at least worth something.? And one last thing Im no Patek hater either, but my watch would be the Calatrava 5196P.? Id rock that with flip flops and shorts all day, every day and twice on Sundays.Patek Philippe Nautilus
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Ingrid Daniels
February 02, 2020
