Two for Tuesday is here and this time we are going for the goldThats right, its time to dig between the couch cushions to collect all that dough. Youll need it as we pit the new Omega Sedna Speedmaster against the Canopus Speedmaster.Its been a couple of weeks since Omega dropped its quartet of new Speedmaster models. Were still frothing at the mouth here and, as such, have plenty more new Speedy content on the way. The newest Speedmaster models look like a sure-fire hit. While that in itself may not be wholly surprising, the release was different this time, though, and the watch cognoscenti seem to notice.The stainless steel models have gotten most of the press for good reason. Theyre more affordable and theyre the most faithful to the originals. However, Ive personally been surprised by how much talk there is about the new Sedna Speedmaster and its partner in crime, the Canopus Speedmaster. Armed with a bottomless bank account, which would you choose?
A word about goldand hairGold, in its natural tone, is one seriously polarizing metal when it comes to watches. Many see it as flashy, old-fashioned, or just plain ugly. However, all of those opinions are wrongI used to think that way too, but then I turned 40 and the lustrous metal shone its warm rays down upon my soul. Resultantly, Ive become the proud owner of several gold watches including the glorious Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary in Moonshine gold (pictured above).But perhaps my fatalistic collision with gold watches was written in the stars. If you look hard enough, you can see the signs. Way back in high school, I sported a mullet. Sure, that seemed innocent enough at the time, but the writing was on the wall. Mullets and gold watches go together like strawberries and cream. And even though mine was inspired by hair-band culture, the gods of fate cared not. Whatever my reasons for growing a mullet, my fate had been sealed. And if you dont believe me, allow me to present another in-team example.Written in the mulletOur founder, RJ, has been riding the gold train for many years. His first foray into the material came via vintage Omega Constellations (a great place to start). In fact, vintage Omega Constellations are so cool, they enticed RJ to wear yellow gold long before he entered his fourth decade. While that might seem surprising to almost everyone, RJs hairdresser saw it coming long, long ago.Our heaven-sent/damnation-bound dictator has been wearing a Euro Mullet for quite some time. Its no mistake, either. He frequently has the style cut back in. Consequently, hes known to give off a kind of classy-yet-sleazy 80s villain vibe. Think Hans Gruber in a velvet three-piece, covered in a thin layer of olive oil. Powerful imagery? Well, thats what you get here on Fratello. To most people, Youre welcome; to anyone that lost their lunch, please send your dry cleaning bill to Herr Gruber at HQGold was coming RJs way whether he liked it or not. For the rest of you, with all this talk of the new Sedna Speedmaster and the Canopus Speedmaster, perhaps your inner mullet is beginning to sprout as well!Back to taskNow that the tomfoolery is over, lets be clear about the new Sedna Speedmaster and the Canopus Speedmaster: both of these 18K gold watches are stunners. They use the same case design as the new stainless models (and the newest Apollo XIII Snoopy as well as the 2019 Apollo XI models) and the METAS chronometer certified 3861 caliber. Each has a sapphire crystal and a ceramic Dot Over Ninety tachymeter bezel. Both of these watches also brings in the glorious new bracelet that skinnies down to 15mm at the clasp.Folks, these are the first regular production gold Speedmaster models in years. They are lovely and they are expensiveAnd one final word we are considering these watches on bracelet even though less expensive strap versions exist. In our view, unless you absolutely abhor the bracelet, its best to buy the full meal deal from the get-go.
The Sedna SpeedmasterI was quietly a bit concerned when I heard that Omega was releasing new gold variants. Would they make another Moonshine gold model and make mine less special? I neednt have worried. Unsurprisingly, the brand chose its rich reddish Sedna gold as the medium instead of revisiting the Moonshine. As such, we have the Sedna Speedmaster.Sedna gold, if youre unfamiliar, comprises a blend of copper and palladium. This alloy helps ensure a tarnish-resistant hue for years to come. Weve seen this metal before on Speedmaster models (such as the Co-Axial Automatic and FOIS), but this is the first time it has shown up on a fully gold Professional.
Omega chose a brass dial with a black coating for the Sedna Speedmaster and wow does this watch look classyI have no idea what other ideas were bandied about, but I am glad that tradition took over and the traditional dark dial is in place. Matching Sedna hands, applied indices, dial printing, and bezel script also help keep the theme on point.
Thoughts on the Sedna SpeedmasterThe Sedna Speedmaster comes in at a sizzling 34,100 on bracelet here in the Fatherland. Thats a healthy 1,800 above my beloved Moonshine gold. We dont know why, but perhaps higher gold prices have a hand in this or Sedna is trickier to work with. Regardless, if youre looking in this pricing realm, you tend to accept or decline based upon whether you like such a watch.Pricing aside, if I were choosing between the new gold models, the Sedna would be my choice. Yes, its a louder watch, but it just looks so good and, dare I say, juicyThe way the light reflects off of that new bracelet gives it an edge over something like white gold. Besides, Im no braggart, but if Im dropping midsize car money on a watch, I want to look down and see the result of my hard work.
The Canopus SpeedmasterThe real surprise release this year was the white gold Canopus Speedmaster. I think that everyone expected a model with a more natural hue, but this model was a nice addition. Canopus also brings in a blend of precious group metals to help the watch resist discoloration. Omega kept with history on prior white gold models and gave this piece a light silver brass dial. Like on the Sedna Speedmaster, Canopus is used for the hands and indices. Black is the color of choice for the ceramic bezel and all the dial printing.
Opinion on the Canopus SpeedmasterIf youve never seen a white gold Speedmaster in the metal, theyre a really unique affair. Theres something lustrous about it, especially when its brushed like the Canopus Speedmaster. Fans of this watch (and there are many who are louder and prouder than in the case of the Sedna Speedmaster), also love its silver dial. And me? Well, I have to say that I am reserving my judgement until I see it. I have no issue with sapphire crystal Speedies, but pictures of this watch literally leave me a bit cold. Does the icy dial need the dab of warmth that Hesalite provides? After all, most of the historic white gold models were paired with acrylic.Proponents of this watch call out the stealth wealth play and thats fine, but I still think Id go with a Sedna Speedmaster and perhaps the Tokyo Edition panda to quench my lighter dial thirst. Oh, and theres a massive white elephant in the room and thats the price. On bracelet, the Canopus makes the bank account buckle at an eye-watering 44,300This baby might play chameleon on your wrist, but youll flex hard as one of The Last of the Great Big Spenders when youre paying for this one. Omega credits the higher metal value and challenging formability for the +10K difference. Whatever the rationale, if you can afford it and want it, Im sure youll find a way to justify it in your own mind.
The Sedna Speedmaster and the CanopusIts very clear to me that the watch world is a better place by having not one, but two gold Speedmaster editions in the regular lineup. Prior attempts werent so successful, but the world has moved on and places the Speedmaster in much higher (read: appropriate) regard now. Of course, it helps that Omega has drastically stepped up its finishing and the 3861 movement is now far more competitive. Whats interesting here is that while the steel Speedmaster undercuts a steel Daytona by nearly half, the gold models are at par or above their precious counterparts from the Coronet. The bottom line is that a gold Speedmaster truly represents rare air.With your voting, lets assume fungibility isnt an issue for either. In our make-believe world, a 10K swing for you is like choosing between a filet or a rib-eye, and the sole question is how much indigestion you can stand for an evening. Of course, you own plenty of other watches and whether you opt for the Sedna Speedmaster or its Canopus compatriot, youll wear these, but perhaps not every day. With all that in mind, do you opt for the crisp cleanliness of Canopus or the darkness and luscious depth of Sedna?Sedna Speedmaster Vs. Canopus Speedmaster
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HSIAO PAI LEE
January 19, 2021
